Favorite Add to Hoffman - Bali Chops - Dot Batik - Kashmir - Cotton Batik Fabric by … There are three fibers from which the Kashmiri shawls are made- wool, Pashmina and shahtoosh. They vary in artistry and the choices of colors, and it is not difficult to tell a mediocre piece from an excellent one. Also, variations in language are observed as you move in various areas of Kashmir, i.e. There are shawls woven from local wool carrying checks, with cross borders woven in bold colors and using motifs inspired by Buddhist traditions. Both embroidery and the type of wool used results in the differences in its price. The talim indicate the color and the number of warp threads to be covered. Most of the garments are made of wool, silk designed with intricate … Embroidery has been developed in to a fine art in Kashmir. It is one of the oldest handicraft of Kashmir. It also has much longer life and will never fade or tarnish. A Namda containing 80% wool is more expensive than the one containing 20% wool. This fleece grows during the harsh and extremely cold winter, underneath the goats outer hair and is shed at the beginning of summer. Occasionally, carpets are made on a cotton base, mainly of woolen pile with silk yarn used as highlights on certain motifs. Therefore, a carpet with a pure silk pile may be referred to as 80% silk carpet. Whether it is your old crewel curtains you want replaced or your … However, besides at least three different grades of Papier` Mache, some are actually cardboard or wood! Handicrafts form a prominent section of the multifarious and appealing range of crafts in Rajasthan, the state that is the epitome of Indian culture, tradition, royalty. Crewel is basically similar to chain stitch. The shawls made from such fine yarn are extremely expensive. Gold is used on most objects, either as the only color, or as the highlight for certain motifs, and besides the finish of the product, it is the quality of the gold used which determines the price. In contrast, the language used in Azad Kashmir is Pahari, since this part of Kashmir usually includes hills and mountainous areas. The most popular pashmina fabric is a 70% pashmina/30% silk blend, but 50/50 is also common. Paper that has been pounded to pulp has the smoothest finish in the final product. The quality of embroidery and thickness of the raffel determines the price. Silks and TweedsSericulture and tweed weaving are more important industries in Kashmir, with departments of the State government closely monitoring the process. Derived from the cashmere goat of the Gobi Desert and Kashmir regions, cashmere wool is very fine and soft but also strong. Send as e-card. Silk usually have cotton base. Another type of embroidery is ari or hook embroidery. It was in the 18th century that to cope with the growing demand for kani shawls, embroidered shawls known as amli, which imitated the woven technique, were introduced. The prices of these three cannot be compared - woolen shawls being within the reach of the most modest budget, and Shahtoosh being once-in-a-lifetime purchase. Business Directory of Indian Suppliers Manufacturers and Products from India. By 1850 and 1860, the export of shawls to Europe increased many folds, but this expansion was a prelude to the sudden collapse of the industry. Yes, from Kashmir to Kanyakumari, every region has its own handloom techniques that are used to weave many unique fabrics. The right side of it cannot be easily distinguished from the wrong side. These shawls have come to be known as Kalu shawls though they are woven all over the Himachal region. As the Kashmir is going through one of the worst period since its existence due to ongoing turmoil the centuries old handicraft industry has gone down to the bottom. The collapse of the industry in Kashmir was followed by a famine and the weavers were condemned to destitution and starvation. You can quiet easily identify one from the other on the reverse of the carpet. The financial value of a piece of work is determined … There are two grades of pashmina. As with the weaving, embroidery is a male profession. To the north of Jammu lies the Pir Panjal range of mountains, which separate the beautiful wooded and fertile vale of Kashmir from the rest of India. Vegetable dyeing on hand-woven cotton sheets was once the norm, with sonehri (gold) and rupehri (silver) printing a speciality, but now aniline dyes are used on mill-made cloth. There are two grades of pashmina. Mens pherans are always made of tweed or coarse wool; womens pherans, somewhat more stylized, are most commonly made of raffel, with designs of ari or hook embroidery at the throat, cuffs and edges. One example, however, of a typical Kashmiri design is the tree of life. Kashmiri carpets are hand made and they are always knotted, never tufted. religious articles and product discounts. The most notable textile products of Jammu Province are still the block-printed calicoes of Samba, a village about thirty miles south of Jammu where the hand printing of textiles is a very long-established industry. The vibrant culture of Jammu and Kashmir is also reflected in the textile crafts of the state, comprising the much famous Pashmina shawls, carpets and Namdah rugs, Pherans, chain stitch and crewel work with distinct embroideries. Subscribe to Free E-Magazine on Art & Culture. Basically, the more knots per square inch, the greater its value and durability. Stretched tightly on a frame is the warp of Carpet. The second grade comes from the fleece of domesticated goats and it is this grade that has always provided the main bulk of the yarn used by Kashmir looms. Tiny stitches are used to cover the entire area. It had an aim of preserving and promoting the art and craft of the people of Gangtok. The figures or motifs are worked in striking colors; the background in a single color, made up of a series of coin sized concentric circles which impart dynamism and a sense of movement to a design. The majority is made out of a yarn called raffal, introduced at the beginning of the twentieth century, which is spun out of merino wool. Did you know that not just the outfits, but even the fabric used to make them are unique to each state of India? In response to this British initiative, production of Kashmir shawls was begun in Mimes, Lyons and Alsace, in France. Though the embroidery originated in the form of shawl ornamentation, it is now used to decorate a range of articles including yardage, home furnishings, jackets, coats, mufflers,jutis(leather footwear) etc. The Kashmiri population in an ethno-linguistic group that can be compared with an Indo-Greek with their racial structure of the Kashmiris. The background fabric should not be visible through the stitches. In the 18th century they had become so popular that merchants from all over the world used to come to Kashmir to purchase them. The traditional folklore of Kashmir is the Chakkirwhich is sung by a chorus of singers led by the lead singer. Comes with matching pants but no stole. The native of Kashmiri people lives in Pakistan, Upper Punjab and Potohar where they organize a group and live together. Chain stitch, be it in wool, silk or cotton, is done by hook rather than any needle. Kashmir is itself connected to the east by a series of high passes to Ladakh. Add to Wishlist. They do not run across the full width of the cloth but are by wooden spools known as tojli, woven back and forth across each section of the warp threads using the particular thread required by that part of the pattern. Embroidered using a hook ("aari") and woolen yarns, crewel fabrics are made in cotton, silk organza, velvet, linen and jute fabrics. Motifs, usually abstract designs or stylized paisleys and flowers are worked in one or two, occasionally three colors, all subdued. Kashmirs relative geographical isolation ensured that a concentration of skilled workers could be built up and maintained. We also offer the option of customizing apparel and home decor products. Sholapitha is the craft of West Bengal where flowers and other variety of articles are made from shola. Cashmere wool. All the embroidery is executed on white cotton fabric, pre-shrunk by the manufacturers. Kashmir used to be hub of western tourists but got converted … Costumes of Jammu and Kashmir are well known for their embroidery and intricate designs, which reflects the richness of the culture and landscape of the region. The land of Kashmir etched its beautiful essence in the form of Kashida embroidery into the fashion world way back in the Mughal period which was patronized by the emperors and the royals of that era. Zain-Ul-Abidin (1420-70), the ruler of Kashmir who was reputed to have brought weavers from Turkestan to the valley, is believed to have laid the foundation of the Kashmir Shawl Industry. Its natural color is mousy brown, and it is, at the most, sparsely embroidered. Designs are most probably Persian in origin, with motifs of flowers and arabesques often in reds and greens on a yellow background. A Geographical Indication (GI) is a name or sign used on certain unique products which corresponds to a specific geographical location or origin (e.g. The finest grade is known as asli tus that comes from wild goats. Only a fraction of these shawls are woven out of pashmina wool. The master weaver and his helper use written instructions known as talim to weave the shawls. The state of Jammu and Kashmir comprises of Jammu Province, the Vale of Kashmir and Ladakh. Whilst shawls are embroidered with a needle, much of the embroidery done in the Kashmir valley is ari work. Pure Gold leaf, which has the unmistakable luster, is far more expensive than bronze dust or gold poster paint. Later the embroidery workers projected their skill on them and produced a variety of motifs and techniques. Pashmina is unmistakable for its softness. The wearing of genuine Kashmir shawls and their European replicas was highly fashionable; the colourful patterned borders of these shawls set off the plain textures of the classically inspired garments then in vogue. The finest variety of all, however, as the aksi reflection, in which the design is produced on one side by splitting the warp threads into half, leaving the other side plain or embroidered with another pattern. As patterns were dictated from Europe, there was a two-year gap between the design being sent out to Kashmir, and the return of the finished product, so that the latest shawls were already outmoded by the time they arrived. Sometimes a shawl was offered as a ransom for the king or offered as tax in recognition of the suzerainty of a powerful ruler. Pashmina is synonymous with Kashmir; hence was called ‘cashmere’ when it spread to the west. When the pounding has not been thorough, the finish is less smooth. The word ‘Pashmina’ comes from the Persian word ‘Pashmineh’ which means ‘made from Pashm’, and Pash means wool in Persian. Its price varies with the percentage of wool. Phulkaris, similar in composition and technique to those of Punjab, were made in Jammu, as were rumals, in the Chamba style. The form of clothing is designed to counter the cold climate of the region. a town, region, or country). Sometimes when the base is silk, the cost increases proportionately. Only if one watches the manufacture of carpets, one can realise the amount of skill involved in its making. Wool is almost invariably used in Crewelwork and color ways are not as elaborate as in Chain stitch. Carpets and rugs. Even today Kashmir makes a vast range of shawls like the kani shawl woven in kanihama, which is only a shadow of what was woven earlier, the double colored pashmina, dhussa, the mens long shawls with its woven border, and the very fine amli or embroidered shawls. Business listings of Fabric, Flocked Fabrics manufacturers, suppliers and exporters in Srinagar, Jammu & Kashmir along with their contact details & address. Kani shawl is another type of Kashmir shawl originating from the Kanihama area of Kashmir. This in turn influenced the design of shawls in Kashmir. One set of weavers would produce the borders, another would prepare different sections of the cross border, and yet another set would prepare section of the central portion; these were then carefully matched and stitched together by the rafugar. The shawls are woven from pashmina yarn. 1. Interestingly, just as little or no raw material for tweed comes from Kashmir, almost no weaving and printing of silk is done in the state. The Himalayan, zone produces other varieties of shawls and tweeds too, but the local people make them primarily for their own use. Persian design not withstanding, any carpet woven in Kashmir is referred to as Kashmiri. 2. Crewel fabrics are used for drapery and upholstery - made into curtains and used to cover chairs, etc. The effect that it has on the pile, too, is important. Traditional Dresses of Jammu & Kashmir – Clothing of Kashmir. Your interests ... Caribbean-Blue Traditional Woolen Stole from Kashmir with Hand-Embroidered Paisleys and Flowers. The intrinsic worth of each piece lies in the size of the stitches and the yarn used. However, the cocoon reared in Kashmir is of the superior quality, yielding an extremely fine fiber, and any silk woven from this thread becomes known. A Single knotted carpet is fluffier and more resistant to touch. It is rich in artistic appeal and has an aesthetically crafted charisma. With government help encouraging a more scientific breeding policy, yields are improving, and the nomadic owners of the goats are also receiving a much better price for the pashmina, which should further improve production. Woven in the twill-tapestry technique, the weft threads of these shawls alone form the pattern. The use of a Geographical … Kashmiri embroidered fabric by the yard - curtain made to order | home decor fabric, Kashmir crewel handmade textile, upholstery fabric theshantihome. Specifications: Pure Wool 6.3 ft x 2.4 ft Item Code: SWR67. The embroiders, originally, were called rafugars or darners. Get free shipping and COD facility option available. In the ancient period all the imperial kings and rulers had given patronage to art and architecture. During the 18th century and early 19th century the designs of the shawls became so complicated that the shawls began to be woven in small pieces by different weavers. The yarn used normally is silk, wool or silk and wool. Tweed on the other hand is woven in Kashmir with pure wool. Jammu & Kashmir is the only traditional silk producing destination of India which is capable of producing bivoltine silk comparable to the quality of silk imported in the international market. To make Papier Mache, first paper is soaked in water till it disintegrates. Buy Kashmir products Online at low prices in India. Till now around 365 products have been added to the GI list. Kashmir still produces many beautiful textiles, though most now have a uniformity of style that inevitably comes with catering to the mass market. Made of 100% wool, they not only brighten up your s Cl.8: BO5D 1/00, DO4H, DO6L 3/00, DO6L 1/06, DO6L 1/14, DO6L 1/00, DO6P, B65H, F26B 13/00, DO1B 3/00, DO1B 5/00 Kashmir, the paradise on earth is known all over the Only the needle workers were able to salvage something by turning to the embroidery of coverlets, tablecloths and other domestic items for the home and tourist market. Crewel fabrics have excellent light-blocking capability making them a good … The colorful felt motifs are inspired from their ancestors from Iran and are seamlessly layered with the base without a stitch. Beautiful black Pashmina Woolen Suit Fabric with exquisite aari work. Its position from the trade routes of Tibet and from Turkestan gave it virtually exclusive use of the raw materials needed for shawls and roads west to Afghanistan and Persia and south to India gave it access to markets for its textile products. Carpets are said to have originated from the oases and villages of Central Asia . It is then pounded, mixed with an adhesive solution, shaped over moulds, and allowed to dry and set before being painted and varnished. The first mention of an Indian woollen shawl being worn in Europe is in one of Lawrence Sternes Letters to Eliza (1767). Thus, when it comes to Thus, when it comes to In terms of cultural relevance, this style of embroidery is considered to be one of the leading cottage industries in Kashmir. The designs painted on objects of Papier Mache are brightly colored. Cardboard, usually indistinguishable from Papier Mache, gives slightly when pressed firmly. Kashmir shawls are also known as kani shawls and jamawars. An Armenian named Khwaja Yusuf, who visited Kashmir in 1803 as a buying agent for a Constantinople firm, introduced the concept of the amli, or needlework shawl, which would imitate the loom-woven shawl but would be much less expensive to produce and would escape the government duties levied on loom woven shawls. These cocoons are far superior to the multi-voltine ones produced in … Exports created a fashion market in Europe and very soon stimulated competition from there. The hook is referred to as ari, Hook work covers a much larger area than needle work in the same amount of time. They can only be loosely woven and are too flimsy for embroidery to be done on them. Akbar introduced the fashion of wearing Kashmir shawls in pairs, stitched back to back, so that the undersides were never visible. It is also Chain stitch done on White background, but here the motifs, mainly stylish flowers, do not cover the entire surface, and the background is not embroidered upon. Also there are single and double-knotted carpets. NamdasFar less expensive are these colorful floor coverings made from woolen and cotton fiber, manually pressed into shape. Crewel fabric is a hand-embroidered fabric traditionally made in Kashmir. The carpet weaving became a gift of … During that time the most desired shawls were those worked in gold and silver thread or shawls with border ornamented with fringes of gold, silver and silk thread.The majority of the woollen fabrics of Kashmir, and particularly the best quality shawls, were and are still made of Pashm or Pashmina, which is the wool of the Capra hircus, a species of the wild Asian mountain goat. Thus, expensive Kashmir shawls were both priced out of the market and had lost the cachet and exclusivity of high fashion. The flowers from the plants are processed to form sponge like material for making crafts. Kashmir shawls are still made all over the valley. Send as free … In order to cut down on import costs, the rearing of pashmina-bearing goats is being encouraged in the high, arid Changthang region of Ladakh. In the Ain-i-Akbari, the annals of the reign of the Mughal emperor Akbar (ruled 1556-1605), revealed that his wardrobes were full of shawls. It is now and icon of fashion motifs, read on here to see why. pronunciation, accent and sometimes meanings vary from Region to Region. You may also use our services for duplicating your favorite embroideries. Darjeeling tea was the first product that got a GI tag in India in 2004–05. Another type of needle embroidery is popularly known as Papier Mache work because of the design and the style in which it is executed. The knotting of the carpet is the most important aspect, determining its durability and value, in addition to its design. The major dance form is the “Roaf” performed by women, who make aesthetic movements while they sing. Exclusive. Bidri is an age old famous handicraft from Bidar, Karnataka. CarpetA Carpet is a life long investment-it may well be the single most expensive purchase during your trip to Kashmir. Throughout the mid nineteenth century, it was the European, specially the French taste, which dominated the shawl design in Kashmir. Developed and refined by the Kashmiri artisans to make the fabric of incredible lightness, strength and lustre, this process is believed to retain the uniqueness of Pashm - the reason why bona fide Pashmina … Kashmir has been famous for kani shawls for many centuries. Kashmir paisley shawls have been defined the very popular Paisley motif. They make excellent household furnishings being hand or machine washable. The fineness of the yarn lends itself particularly well to the weaves known as chinon and crepe de chine, in addition to the universally recognized silk weave. Be the first to rate this product. Unlike woolen or Pashmina shawls, Shahtoosh is seldom dyed-that would be rather like dyeing gold! Woolen shawls are popular because of their embroidery work, which is special to Kashmir. The Kasmir shawl is known all over the world for superfine quality of wool, its intricate designs and remarkable craftsmanship, a reputation it has had for centuries. Thirdly, Paisley and other imitation shawls were now cheap and plentiful, and much more likely to be worn by a working girl than by a member of the leisured classes. Carpet weaving in Kashmir was not originally indigenous but is thought to have come in by way of Persia. The Iranians, who came to Kashmir via the Ladakh route, gave the fabric its name, ‘Pashmina’. The Jacquard loom, first used in 1818 by French weavers, greatly simplified the weaving of complicated designs. A double-knotted carpet has a pile that bends when you brush it one way with your hand, and stands upright when it is brushed in other direction. In the case of pure shahtoosh too, there are many qualities-the yarn can be spun so skillfully as to resemble a strand of silk. The classical Kashmir shawl was woven out of Pashmina wool, whose main source was the fleece of a central Asian species of mountain goat, the Capra Hicus. 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